Almond Torte

Here’s another test recipe from The Dinner Party That Wasn’t Meant To Be…  At least I’ll be prepared when we’re able to reschedule.

Several years ago, I was a bit less resilient in the kitchen than I am now.  If a recipe failed, I’d be likely to toss it aside rather that make adjustments and try again.  I just wasn’t an experienced enough cook to know how to do a better job the next time.

When I first tried the Almond Torte recipe from the January/February 2004 issue of Everyday Food (actually back in 2004, I believe), it was a spectacular failure.  The cake was dry, and I think I managed to peel off the entire almond layer when I removed piece of parchment that had lined the bottom of the pan.  Somehow, though, this recipe stuck with me through the years.  I would think back on it because I had wanted it to work so badly (it’s a gorgeous, potentially delicious cake with only four Weight Watchers points per serving – seriously!), but I was never really motivated to give it another shot.

Until recently.

I have a very dear friend here in Denver who doesn’t eat wheat or dairy, and I’ve had her over for dinner and such several times since we moved back to Colorado.  As I’ve said before, she never expects any kind of special treatment, but I’ve really enjoyed the challenge of coming up with delicious dishes that everyone at the table can enjoy when she comes over.  In the beginning, I was more focused on taking “regular” dishes and making them gluten and dairy free by omitting certain ingredients or using things like gluten-free flour or specific brands of rice or soy milk.  I’ve discovered, though, that I much prefer making dishes that are naturally gluten and dairy free.

I was scanning my dessert recipe spreadsheet for options when I realized that the Almond Torte was exactly what I needed.  It had a short list of naturally gluten- and dairy-free ingredients: almonds, powdered sugar, egg whites, salt, and almond extract.  I just needed to be brave enough to give the recipe a second try.  The most recent Daring Bakers’ challenge actually helped me feel more prepared; I know way more now about what almond flour and/or meal should look like.  Five more years in the kitchen have also exponentially increased my comfort level when working with egg whites.  I was ready to kick this one in the tail.

There are some very important differences between the recipe as it is printed in the magazine and as it is posted online, so I’m going to provide you with the printed version.  Afterwards, I’ll discuss the techniques I used for getting it right this time.

Almond Torte
Serves 8
Prep time: 20 minutes | Total time: 1 hour, 30 minutes

Note: Cut the paper liner before making the batter, but do not spray and line the pan until the batter is ready; this will prevent the spray from pooling in the bottom of the pan.

Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups plus 1/4 cup sliced almonds
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
4 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon almond extract
Nonstick cooking spray

Method:
Preheat oven to 325F.  Cut a piece of wax or parchment paper to fit the bottom of an 8-inch round nonstick cake pan; set aside.

Process 1 1/2 cups almonds with 3/4 cup sugar in a food processor until finely ground; set aside.

With an electric mixer, beat egg whites and salt until soft peaks form.  Gradually add remaining 2 tablespoons sugar; beat until peaks are stiff and glossy.  Beat in extract.  With a rubber spatula, gently fold in almond mixture in two additions.

Coat cake pan with cooking spray; line with reserved paper round.  Spray lined pan; sprinkle evenly with remaining 1/4 cup almonds.  Gently spread batter in pan; tap pan on counter to eliminate air bubbles.

Bake until golden brown and firm in the center, 40 to 45 minutes.  Cool completely in pan; invert onto rack.  (Gently remove parchment before serving.)

Source: Everyday Food, January/February 2004

Here are my tips for perfect results:

• I’m not sure if it makes a difference, but I used parchment paper – not wax paper – to line my pan.
• The printed recipe says to use “sliced almonds,” while the online recipe says to use “sliced blanched almonds.”  I didn’t want the almond skins in my homemade almond meal, but I could only find slivered blanched almonds, not sliced.  My compromise was to use 1 1/2 cups of slivered blanched almonds to make the batter, while I used regular sliced almonds for the top layer of the cake.  Everything worked out beautifully.
• I actually processed my almonds in three batches to get almond meal that I thought was ground finely enough.  I processed 1/2 cup of almonds with 1/4 cup of powdered sugar, pulsing until the mixture was pretty finely ground.  Using a fine-mesh sieve, I sifted the almond meal into a medium bowl and then put any chunks that didn’t make it through the sieve back into the food processor with the next batch of almonds and sugar.  In the end, there were still some bits that were too big to be sieved, but a large percentage of the meal was as fine as flour.  Just don’t get overzealous with your processing or attempt to process any almonds without powdered sugar; you’ll end up with almond butter.
• Neither recipe mentions this, but I always bring my egg whites to room temperature before beating them for better volume.  Letting them sit (covered) on the counter for about 30 minutes will do it.  (If you’re short on time, nest the container of egg whites in a larger container of warm – not hot! – water, but don’t get any water in the whites.)  Eggs separate better when they’re cold, though, so separate them before bringing them to room temperature.  Also, be sure to use a copper, stainless steel, or glass bowl when you beat your egg whites.  Plastic bowls can hang onto residual fats, which will interfere with your egg whites reaching maximum volume.
• I didn’t even realize I had done this until now, but I actually used 2 tablespoons of superfine baking sugar when I beat my egg whites instead of 2 more tablespoons of powdered sugar.  Since I was happy with my results, I would do this again next time.
• The printed recipe says to use 3/4 teaspoon of almond extract, while the online recipe cuts it back to 1/2 teaspoon.  If you like a strong almond flavor, use the full 3/4 teaspoon of extract.  I’ll probably try the 1/2 teaspoon the next time I make the torte to see if we enjoy a more subtle flavor.
• Both the printed and online recipes have suggested baking times of 40 to 45 minutes, but my cake was done in 35.

If you love almond flavor, this torte is straight from heaven.  And despite the fact that it doesn’t contain any flour, oil, or butter, the recipe actually does make cake!  It’s really moist with a delicate crumb, and the crunch from the top layer of almonds is a terrific textural accent.  This recipe is a winner, especially for those looking for a light treat (only 184 calories per slice!) or a gluten- and dairy-free treat.

TIPS:  Many of you already know this, but if you’re going to cook or bake for someone with gluten or dairy allergies (or any kind of allergy for that matter), double-check the packaging of your ingredients to make sure the ingredient has not been exposed to trace amounts of the allergen.  Bob’s Red Mill, for example, sells a variety of products that are certified gluten free.

Recipe link: Almond Torte

Tie-Dye Cookies

My little brother absolutely adores tie-dye.  Every time my parents or I go on vacation, we’re always keeping our eyes peeled for that perfect tie-dyed t-shirt to bring home.  (We’ve had good luck at the St. Arnold Brewery in Houston and the Left Hand Brewery in Longmont, CO; what is it with breweries and tie-dye?)

Anyway, I was trying to decide what to send my brother for his birthday (today!) and I thought tie-dye cookies would be perfect.  (I sent some cookies iced like gift boxes to my dad for his birthday last month and they all arrived intact, so I figured I might as well make a habit of it.)  I wasn’t sure how to go about accomplishing the tie-dye effect, though.  After some online inspiration and a bit of messy experimentation, I managed to come up with a technique that I think conveys tie-dye pretty well:

Aren’t they cute?  I just base-iced the cookies in one color, used a spoon to swirl two other colors of icing on top, and then dragged a toothpick from the center to the edges.  Like real tie-dye, they all end up a bit different.

Happy Birthday, little brother!  Hope you enjoy your treats.

Maple Roasted Pumpkin Seeds

It took so much work to crack open those pie pumpkins that I wasn’t going to waste one bit of them, including the seeds.  I’ve never actually eaten pumpkin seeds before (much less roasted them), so I did some searching online to uncover the best way to turn my byproduct into a snack.  The recipe I came up with is a hybrid of information I found on Simply Recipes (my favorite Spanish rice source!), 101 Cookbooks, and Adventures in Shaw.

Maple Roasted Pumpkin Seeds
Yield: 1 cup

Ingredients:
1 cup pumpkin seeds (cleaned of pumpkin pulp and unhulled)
4 cups water
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
1 tablespoon pumpkin pie spice
Table salt
Cooking spray

Method:
Rinse seeds in a colander.  Combine seeds, water, and kosher salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 10 minutes.  Remove from heat and drain.  Press seeds between paper towels to remove excess moisture.

Melt butter in a medium bowl.  Toss seeds with butter.  Add maple syrup and pumpkin pie spice; toss to combine.

Spray a rimmed baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray.  Spread seeds in a single layer on baking sheet.  Bake for 20 – 25 minutes at 350F (until somewhat dry and crisp), tossing seeds every 5 minutes to prevent sticking.  Sprinkle with table salt to taste.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

These turned out to be pretty tasty.  The pumpkin pie spice and maple flavors are definitely evocative of fall.  Boiling the seeds with salt and then adding the sprinkle of salt at the end created a saltiness that meshed well with the sweetness of the maple syrup.  I might try adding a bit of brown sugar next time to make things even more sweet (and perhaps a bit gooey).

A Kitchen Curse?

Something disturbing is happening.  Here’s a summary of my last three days in the kitchen:

• I failed spectacularly at my Daring Bakers’ challenge.  (More on that coming Tuesday.)
• I overbaked a batch of cookies and had to start over completely.  I didn’t realize this, of course, until they were already cooled and iced.  Naturally, there was a deadline attached to this batch as well.
• When it was time to add a vanilla bean to a batch of homemade ice cream, I discovered that while the vanilla beans I purchased this week made it onto my receipt, they didn’t actually make it to my house.
• The ice cream didn’t thicken (at all!) in the ice cream maker.
• I broke a melamine bowl (isn’t melamine practically indestructible?) that (1) I had received as a wedding gift and (2) is a perfect match to my stand mixer.
• My pie crust cracked, probably because I forgot the sanding sugar and then accidentally sealed up my crust vents with a second coating of egg wash.

Argh!  It’s enough to make me want to drop to the kitchen floor and throw a tantrum (with tears, probably).  Curse reversal and/or positive kitchen vibes would be much appreciated…

Old-Fashioned Apple Pie

So, I’m wondering how I can disclose a particular bit of information and still maintain my kitchen credibility…

Are you ready?

Until this past Sunday, I had never baked a pie from scratch.

Seriously.

I mean, I’ve baked a million other things from scratch: cakes, tarts, cookies, bread, puff pastry, etc.  In fact, these days, I don’t bake anything that isn’t from scratch.  (Please know, though, that I’m not some uptight baking snob; like I told my friend Laura the other day: “Cake mix and canned frosting sell because they are delicious.”)  I think part of the reason I never got around to it is because I have been with my husband for the past ten years, a time frame that completely encompasses my journey as a cook.  And let me tell you, his grandmother makes amazing pies.  A-mazing.  She’d make a pie for every family gathering (except once, when Dr. O’s cousin’s then-girlfriend helpfully volunteered to make dessert; we were all crushed), and for as delicious as dinner always was, we couldn’t wait for dessert.

Since I’ve been on a roll with doughs these days, I figured it was time for me to at least attempt a pie.  My favorite kind of pie is cherry, but the harvest season and chilly weather made apple an appropriate pick.  Dr. O’s grandmother always said that the key to a flaky, delicious pie crust is to use both butter and shortening, so I decided to use Martha Stewart’s Perfect Pie Crust recipe.  Finally, I liked the sound of the filling in Martha’s Old-Fashioned Apple Pie, so I just subbed the other crust for the pate brisee called for in the recipe.

I used the food processor method to make the crust; if you have extra reserves of arm strength and want to use a pastry blender, the recipe includes instructions for that method as well.

In the smallest bowl of my food processor, I combined 2 cups of all-purpose flour and 1/2 teaspoon of salt.  I added 1 1/2 sticks of very cold unsalted butter and 3 tablespoons of chilled vegetable shortening (Crisco), cut into smallish pieces (about a tablespoon each).  Once all of the ingredients were in, I processed the mixture for a few seconds until it resembled coarse meal.  To bring the dough together, I added ice water bit by bit, processing very briefly after each addition (no more than 20 – 30 seconds total).  The recipe calls for 1/4 cup of the ice water, but says the key to light, flaky pastry is to add as little water as possible and to process the dough as little as possible.  I just added water and processed until the dough really started coming together on my food processor blades; I didn’t end up using the entire 1/4 cup.  Once the dough had formed, I wrapped it in plastic wrap and chilled it for an hour.

Peeling, coring, and slicing apples seems to be an eternal task for me, so I decided to use the dough chilling time to get the pie filling ready.  I don’t have one of those crank apple peelers (though I’ll take your reviews if you’ve used one), so I used a vegetable peeler to remove the skin from 4 pounds of Jonathan apples.  I cut each apple in half, cut the halves in half, cut out the core, and then sliced each quarter into 1/4- to 1/2-inch slices.  After throwing all the apple slices into a large bowl, I added 3 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice, 1/2 cup of sugar, 5 tablespoons of all-purpose flour, 1/4 teaspoon of ground cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon of ground nutmeg, and 1/4 teaspoon of salt, tossing the mixture to combine.  I covered the filling with plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator until I was ready to fill the pie.

Once the dough finished chilling, I lightly floured my clean kitchen counter, divided the dough into two halves, and patted each half into a flat round.  Using a lightly floured rolling pin, I rolled the first half into a 13-inch round (about 1/8-inch thick).  I fit the dough into a 9-inch pie plate (take care not to stretch it) and trimmed the edges of the dough to be flush with the rim.  I placed the crust in the freezer for 30 minutes.

For the second dough half, I placed a large piece of parchment paper on the counter, placed the dough on the parchment, and rolled another 13-inch round.  I placed the parchment (with the dough on it) on a baking sheet and transferred it to the refrigerator to chill for 30 minutes.

Once the 30 minutes had elapsed, I removed the crust from the freezer, filled it with the apple mixture (see below), and dotted it with 1/2 stick of unsalted butter (cut into 1/2-inch pieces).  I was able to fit almost all of the apple slices into the pie crust, leaving only a few slices behind in the bowl.  I lightly brushed the edges of the pie with a wet pastry brush.

Next, I placed the refrigerated dough round over the top of the apples, trimmed the edges, and pressed them to seal.  I have to tell you, I think this would have been easier if I had chosen to use a more traditional pie plate instead of one with extended sides and built-in handles; it was hard to get a good pinch in to crimp the dough.  Live and learn, right?

Anyway, I cut four 1/2-inch slits in the top of the pie for venting, whisked together an egg yolk and 1 tablespoon of heavy cream to make an egg wash, and used my pastry brush to brush the top of the pie with it.  (I didn’t use all of the egg wash.)  I sprinkled the pie with sanding sugar and put it back in the freezer to rest for 30 minutes before baking.

When the resting time was over, I put the pie on a baking sheet and baked it for 20 minutes at 400F.  (Transferring a pie in a glass pie plate directly from the freezer to the oven made me nervous, by the way, but I guess Pyrex is built for it.)  After those first 20 minutes, I dropped the temperature to 350F and baked it until it was golden brown and bubbling.  (The recipe had indicated an additional 35 minutes; mine didn’t seem done until the 45-minute mark, but everything seems to take longer at altitude.)  I removed the pie from the oven and set it on a wire rack to cool.

Ideally, one lets a pie cool to room temperature before cutting it to let things set up properly.  Dr. O and I just couldn’t stand smelling the pie without having a slice in front of us.  I only let it cool for about 45 minutes before cutting it, so it was pretty warm and oozy.  Based on how things set up as it sat, though, I think there’s enough flour in the filling to prevent this from being a runny pie.  Next time, I’ll have to factor in plenty of cooling time (preferably when Dr. O isn’t home) so I’ll know for sure.

It wasn’t quite grandma’s pie, but it was a valiant (and delicious) first attempt, I think.  Maybe things just taste better when grandmothers make them?   The crust was definitely light and flaky, and I’m a huge fan of the slight crunch the sanding sugar adds to that top layer.  The filling was adequately sweet with just a hint of tartness.  The only thing I’d change is that I’d slice the apples thinner.  They were all tender, but I like mine to be very soft (but not mushy, of course).  Sticking to 1/4-inch slices would probably do it.

From-scratch pie certainly isn’t quick or exceptionally easy, which is probably another reason it took me so long to make one.  Including resting time, the pie took almost 4 hours, and that’s just pulling it out of the oven.  Still, when you think about pre-made crust and canned apple filling as opposed to the real thing, it was absolutely worth it.

TIPS:  You can use any pie-appropriate apples you like with this recipe, of course.  I’ve heard good things about Jonathan, McIntosh, Golden Delicious (preferably from New York), and Cortland apples.  Granny Smiths work well if you like a pie on the tart side.  Feel free to share other favorites!

Recipe link: Perfect Pie Crust and Old-Fashioned Apple Pie

Greek Potatoes with Lemon Vinaigrette

Whenever we would eat at the Parthenon, I looked forward to the Greek potato that would come with the souvlaki.  It was skinless, perfectly cooked, slightly lemony, and lightly coated in oil.  It wasn’t a nutritional masterpiece, but was it ever good.

When I shifted my Gourmet Club menu last month from moussaka to chicken, I figured that lemony Greek potatoes would nicely complement the chicken marinade and the salad dressing.  After much searching and reading of reviews, I settled on a Bobby Flay recipe: Greek Potatoes with Lemon Vinaigrette.  The recipe wouldn’t produce the whole, skinless potatoes we enjoyed in Lincoln, but I was awfully excited about the shallots, garlic, and other delicious bits in the marinade.

Based on the recommendation of several reviewers, I made only a half recipe of the vinaigrette.  (How in the world could one pan of potatoes require 1 1/2 cups of olive oil?!?)  In a medium bowl, I whisked together 3/4 cup of olive oil (still a lot, I know!), 3 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice, 1 medium shallot (chopped), 1 large garlic clove (chopped), 1/2 tablespoon of dried Greek oregano, and 1/2 tablespoon of fresh Italian parsley (chopped); I seasoned the mixture to taste with salt and pepper.

Next, I cut 3 pounds of well-scrubbed Russet potatoes lengthwise into 6 wedges each and placed them on a heavy, rimmed baking sheet.  (They just barely fit.)  The recipe doesn’t say to do this, but I generously seasoned the potato wedges with salt and pepper before I tossed them with 1/2 cup of the vinaigrette.  (During my trial run of the recipe, I thought the potatoes lacked flavor; seasoning at this point solved the problem.)  I poured 1/2 cup of chicken stock around the potatoes, skipped seasoning here since I did it earlier, and placed them in a 425F oven.  I baked the potatoes, turning them occasionally, until they were tender and golden brown (45 minutes).  To serve, I placed them on a platter and drizzled them with the remaining vinaigrette.

The potatoes were good and were a nice complement to the meal, though I have to admit they weren’t the star of the table.  They did get very tender, but I would have appreciated a hint of crispiness.  The vinaigrette didn’t really seem to get into the potatoes either, but the flavor was especially nice if you got a bite where the shallot and garlic really clung to the potato.  I would probably make these potatoes again because they were pretty convenient for entertaining.  My search for the ideal Greek potato recipe will continue, however.

TIPS:  If you do decide to give this recipe a whirl, don’t underestimate the importance of seasoning the potato wedges before you toss them with the vinaigrette.  Don’t rely on the vinaigrette to provide all of the flavor!

Recipe link: Greek Potatoes with Lemon Vinaigrette

Homegrown Fort Collins Harvest Celebration

Colorado folks (and those with an inclination to travel),

If you’re going to be in the Fort Collins area this weekend, be sure to check out the Homegrown Fort Collins harvest celebration.  The event includes tasting tours, chef’s tours, cooking demos, cooking competitions, and all sort of fun foodie activities centered around the Colorado harvest.

Even if you can’t make it to Fort Collins this weekend, check out the Beet Street blog; I contributed a post with recipes for making a harvest vegetable pizza, and there’s tons of other great content from other Colorado bloggers regarding the harvest.

Enjoy the weekend!

All You Need Is Love (and Tequila)

It’s cookie time again, y’all.  I’ve baked and iced well over 500 sugar cookies in the month of September, which even I find hard to believe.  I wanted to share my latest two batches:  hearts for my parents’ 37th wedding anniversary (congrats, Mom and Dad!) and lime wedges for the tequila party I’ll be attending in New Mexico this weekend.

Halloween experiments begin next week!

Daring Bakers’ Challenge: Vols-au-Vent

I’m late, I’m late, for a very important date!

The September 2009 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Steph of A Whisk and a Spoon. She chose the French treat vols-au-vent, based on the puff pastry recipe by Michel Richard from the cookbook Baking With Julia by Dorie Greenspan.

I debated skipping this challenge because I just couldn’t pull it off by yesterday (the 300 sorority cookies and an out-of-town wedding got in the way), but I figured late was better than never with this one.  See, I had always joked that as much as I like to make things from scratch, puff pastry was not (and probably never would be) one of those things.  I had developed the impression somewhere along the way that it would be two days of hair pulling, teeth grinding, and general misery.  I was so wrong.

Making the puff pastry did take some time, but that was the only challenge.  Maybe I’m just getting more comfortable with dough these days, but everything happened exactly as indicated in the recipe provided.  I was even able to give my dough four turns the first time around, which really saved some time.

Since my vols-au-vent were miniature, my initial baking time (with the parchment on top) was 10 minutes.  I went with an additional 15 minutes at 350F, though I think I could have browned them a bit more.  I filled the vols-au-vent with a vanilla-pumpkin pudding and then topped them with cinnamon whipped cream and a hint of fresh grated nutmeg.  With the flavors and the flaky pastry dough, they were like two-bite pumpkin pies!

This is why I love the Daring Bakers community; another “I never” is now an “I did.”  Thanks for a great challenge!

Recipe link: Vols-au-Vent

The Joys of Being a Sorority Alumna (aka Creating 285 Pieces of Cookie Art Gratis)

Oh, who am I kidding?  I love any excuse to make sugar cookies.  This was by far the largest number I had ever cranked out for a single event, though, and it was a project.  At least I had Paige, Katie, and Catherine to help with the base icing…  Thanks, ladies!

I think they turned out pretty cute.  Hopefully, they’re the perfect accent for the Sisterhood Day parties taking place tomorrow night.  Good luck, Deltas!